There’s a New Kid in Town – With a Killer QPR

Fast facts:

2019 Trader Joe’s Platinum Reserve Nizza, Lot #117, Barbera, Asti, Italy $14.99 (@Trader Joe’s, California)

I chose to reference the iconic Eagles song in the subject line for several reasons:

1. It was my reaction when I first spied this wine at my local Trader Joe’s
2. We recently saw the Eagles perform this song at the Sphere in Las Vegas where
3. We paid $150 a bottle for Italian wines at dinners that were not significantly better than this $15 bottle from TJs.  Vegas baby!

As Barbera is the most widely planted red grape in Piemonte, there is a strong identity with this varietal. Distinctive for its high acidity and relatively low level of tannins (for a red varietal) it is found in dining rooms across the region. Likewise, its modest tannins give Barbera an immediate drinkability not often found with other local reds.

Barbera does have this positive character, but when it comes to comparing this wine with local offerings such as Barolo and Barbaresco, made entirely from Nebbiolo, Barbera has typically taken a back seat. Piemonte’s most celebrated red wines – Barolo and Barbaresco tended to steal the spotlight. That is, until recently.

“Where you been lately, there’s a new kid in town…”

Enter Nizza, a wine made solely from Barbera, that has shaken up the identity of this varietal. Made entirely from Barbera, Nizza has a relatively brief history, but one that has brought forth a highly distinctive red wine that offers both excellent varietal purity, significant complexity and perhaps most importantly, notable aging potential.

Nizza is produced in the Monferrato area of the Asti province where there are 18 communes, including Nizza Monferrato, which lends its name to the wine. Nizza was formally introduced with the 2000 vintage as a subzone of Barbera d’Asti province and was awarded DOC status. The wine was given the more prestigious DOCG status in 2008.  Finally, the name of wine was changed simply to Nizza DOCG in 2014. This modification, identifying the wine simply with a place name without having to list the grape type, was similar to Barolo and Barbaresco, which are also labeled without the varietal term.  This was a pivotal moment for Nizza, as the wine could be identified for its origins, without having to list the grape type.

Tasting Notes:

“Dang!” I exclaimed upon first tasting this wine. It pours a promising opaque ruby and the nose is an arresting melange of cherry cola, leather, sandalwood and vanilla.  Flavors of black cherry, red raspberry and licorice up front and oak and cherry on the finish. Nice balance between grippy tannins, fruit and acidity. This is an ideal food wine that would pair delightfully with roasted red meats, barbecue and the holy trilogy of pizza, pasta and burgers. ABV is a robust 15%.